Brash, flash and large-hearted

In some senses India puts forward its best face in Delhi: it is unarguably the most "developed" of its cities, the beneficiary of multiple budgets for infrastructure and maintenance. It is the country's capital and seat of governance, and also a state by itself. This is the city the prime minister calls home, and all the nation's lawmakers as well. It is also a magnet for thousands of India's poorest, who are drawn to the prosperity of the National Capital Region, an area that includes the residential and commercial suburbs of Gurgaon and Noida.

Delhi is a city that wears hustle on its sleeve: everyone's going somewhere and is in a hurry to get there. Even more than Mumbai, the country's commercial capital, Delhi flaunts its wealth - the flashiest cars, the ritziest designer labels, the swankiest nightspots, the most lavish hospitality. That's partly because the city's population mostly comprises arrivistes: they could date back to the Partition of India in 1947 or have landed yesterday, but they all have a point to prove in this the most large-hearted of cities.

The energy is evident everywhere: from vehicular speed on the wide roads of super-posh South Delhi, to the bhangra on dance floors, and from the wheeling and dealing in the corridors of parliamentary power in Lutyens' Delhi to the boardrooms of some of India's richest and most influential corporate bodies in the new suburbs. Whether you're here for a day or a decade, Delhi draws you in, makes you its own.

Summer hits Delhi towards the end of March. In the first week of April temperatures can be around 30°C and rise to 40 by May. Cotton clothes are your best bet, and if you are travelling in the day, cover your head, apply sunscreen and carry a bottle of water with you.

There are plenty of public-transport options: buses, the Metro, auto-rickshaws and taxis. Scores of buses from all over the city ply by the Feroz Shah Kotla ground; take it if you're intrepid. Tell the conductor where you need to hop off and he'll warn you as the bus approaches the stadium. Fares range from Rs 5 to Rs 25, depending on the distance and whether the bus is air-conditioned or not.

To see if the Metro will be convenient from your accommodation, check the route map. For commuters from South Delhi, Pragati Maidan is the stop closest to the stadium; otherwise, get off at the New Delhi railway station stop. If you plan to use the Metro a lot, buy a tourist card: a one-day card costs Rs 100 and a three-day card Rs 250, inclusive of a refundable deposit of Rs 50.

Call a cab. You can't hail a taxi off the road, like you can in Mumbai and Kolkata, but Delhi has several app-based cab services, like Uber and Ola.

With a couple of exceptions, there are few top-notch hotels around Kotla, Delhi's cricket hub, though there are plenty of budget options.

High-end
Le Meridien (from Rs 11,000) is the hotel closest to the cricket grounds. Located in the city centre, it has all the trappings of its category. The Park (from Rs 12,000) is excellently located, close to the city centre. The Imperial (from Rs 22,500), right by Janpath, is decadent with some great restaurants to boot.

Mid-level
Hotel Broadway (from Rs 3200) is in a not-so-fashionable part of Delhi, but is very close to the stadium and offers excellent value for money. In Jorbagh, in the heart of New Delhi, Jorbagh (from Rs 5850) is a small, exclusive guest house. Some 8km straight down the road from the stadium, in Sunder Nagar, Jukaso Inn (from Rs 4250) is highly recommended.

Budget
Ginger (IRCTC) (from Rs 1540) is an excellent no-frills option close to the stadium. Backpacker haven Paharganj also has some fairly decent accommodation: try Hotel Grand Godwin (from Rs 1800) and Prince Polonia (from Rs 2000).

Delhi is a gastronomic paradise, especially if you have a strong stomach. From memorable street food to lavish five-star spreads, this city presents a unique take on Indian and imported cuisines.

High-end:
Bukhara at the Hotel Maurya is where presidents and popstars go to dine. Totally worth the hype, especially the restaurant's special kaali dal. Varq (at the Hotel Taj Mansingh) too does excellent kebabs and breads, often with a nouvelle-cuisine twist. If you're in the mood for some Spanish, you can't go wrong at Sevilla at The Claridges. And, of course, if you can swing the reservation, land a table at Indian Accent, chef Manu Mehrotra's much lauded fusion restaurant, currently the hottest dining spot in the country.

Mid-level
Be prepared to be spoilt for choice at Khan Market, an upmarket assemblage of boutique restaurants and shops. Try Amici, Latitude 28, Mamagoto, The Blue Door and Big Chill. If in Connaught Place, United Coffee House is recommended for basic Indian fare in a retro environment.

Budget
Saravana Bhavan offers excellent South Indian staples and thalis. Wenger's is great for lunches and desserts on the go: their shammi kebabs are a must-have. Nirula's is a Delhi institution, the first place to offer fast food in the city. Their hot-chocolate fudge is recommended for anyone with a sweet tooth.

High-end
The Orb at the Radisson Blu is a thumping lounge bar where the parties get loud. Farzi Cafe is a hip restaurant by day that turns into a party lounge at night. Rick's Bar at the Taj Mahal Hotel has an expat clientele and a fine selection of malts.

Mid-level
Zerruco at the Ashok is a laidback lounge with a focus on good food and attentive service. Shalom in South Delhi is a highly rated lounge bar plus Mediterranean restaurant. Some of the best indie bands in the country play at AntiSocial at the Hauz Khas Social, and drinks are super cheap to boot.

Budget
Industrial interiors, cheap drinks and a rooftop bar for when the weather obliges makes Out of the Box a great post-work hangout. Strictly for drinks only, Cafe 27 has good alcohol but terrible food. My Bar remains one of Delhi's cheapest hangouts; go to the original one at Connaught Place in a large group to land a good table.

Go to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. It's 200km, or four hours, away, but the roads are good. And nothing you've heard about the Taj will prepare you for the sight of it.

Stroll around the Lodhi Gardens. A 90-acre green space in the heart of Delhi; it's dotted with medieval ruins, beautiful walks, laughing picnickers and a smattering of bird life.

Shop in Janpath. Export rejects, mirror-work bags, kitschy clothes and great bargains - you'll find them all here. Or go to Dilli Haat for a sampling of crafts and cuisine from all over the country.

Go on a food walk guided by food critic Rahul Verma. Or one of a number of Delhi Heritage Walks

Visit at least one museum: the National Museum, if history is of interest, the National Gallery of Modern Art if it's art.

Sample some street food. Brave the bylanes of Parathewalli Galli for varied and often surprising interpretations of the humble Indian flat bread, stuffed with seasonal vegetables and served with yogurt. If eating there doesn't seem appealing, head to Karim's, behind Jama Masjid, for superlative grills, breads and curries.